Restaurant Astrance Paris – A Culinary Phoenix Rises

In a city of ever-changing restaurants — and particularly so since the pandemic — it was refreshing to revisit a place where we've had some of our most memorable meals. It was in 2001 that Chef Pascal Barbot and his partner Christophe Rohat began making waves at Astrance Paris, their tiny restaurant tucked into the impasse Rue Beethoven in the 16th Arrondissement, a few steps away from the river, and across from the Eiffel Tower. Our last dining experience in 2007 had been an explosive experience called Menu Surprise. What could we expect in 2024, many years later?

Our Return to Astrance Paris

Young green peas, stuffed and served with edible flowers on a bed of stone

On a cloudy day in June we arrived at a modern building in an upscale neighborhood of the 16th Arrondissement. Inside, the decor was elegant minimalism, with ample space between tables and an abundance of Asian plants such as gingko. It was a surprise to not find the Menu Surprise. There was instead a selection of à la carte offerings along with two new tasting menus — the higher-priced Menu Astrance and the Menu Saison. Familiar with Chef Barbot's cooking, we opted for the Menu Astrance. Christophe Rohat later shared with us that customer requests led them to introduce à la carte items, but that 85% of diners still order the tasting menus. (And why wouldn't they? Barbot is a master in the kitchen; it's best to sit back and marvel at his artful creations.)

"Delicate" and "precise" are two words to apply to Barbot's cooking, and that was demonstrated from the get-go. A seafood course consisted of a selection of shellfish and crustaceans, both raw and cooked, complemented by a subtle sprinkling of maritime herbs. Asian ingredients elevated the complexity of the dish, creating a symphony of flavors. We (nearly) swooned in delight over the whelk topped with a thick dollop of mayonnaise.

Asian-inspired shellfish and crustaceans

In fact, Pascal Barbot is renowned for his fusion of classic French cuisine with flavors from Asia, such as soy, lemongrass, and miso. His layering of flavors — one atop the other — and the artfully composed dishes are striking. Barbot also highlights seasonal ingredients; we were served white asparagus, paired with beurre blanc and turbot prepared in two ways — gently poached and seared over a barbecue. A side to the firm fish was riz koshihikari fraichement poli une bisque de crustace, a high-quality Japanese short grain rice served with a frothy seafood bisque.

As with most Michelin-rated restaurants you can expect the bread to be among the best you've ever eaten. At Astrance the best-ever bread is from Ten Belles in the 11th Arrondissement; made with just a few ingredients including naturally-occurring yeasts fermented overnight to create a flavourful sourdough loaf.

The Rise of Astrance Paris

The dining room at Astrance Paris

Back in 2001, Barbot and Rohat's ascent in the Michelin rankings was remarkable, earning one star within five months, followed by a second star in 2005, and the ultimate accolade of three stars in 2007. In those glory days, reservations needed to be made three months in advance, with only fifty privileged diners per day securing a table at the most coveted restaurant in Paris. We were among that fortunate cohort.

Early on, in a clever, strategic move to cope with their limited kitchen space, the duo behind Astrance created the Menu Surprise. Instead of offering an extensive à la carte menu, which would have demanded a wide range of costly ingredients and strained the resources of their small kitchen, they decided to serve a fixed menu of five or seven courses crafted with the best ingredients available to Barbot each day. This strategy allowed Astrance to simplify their purchasing process and showcase Barbot's daily culinary creations.

In The Footsteps of Joël Robuchon

Restaurant Astrance Paris Precision cooking is the hallmark of Astrance Paris

Even though theirs was one of the most meteoric rises in the Michelin books, the duo yearned for a bigger space with a larger kitchen and more tables for guests. After a lengthy search they found it — a spacious restaurant on Rue Longchamp that was, coincidentally, the former location of Joël Robuchon's iconic Jamin. (Named Best Restaurant in the World in 1984 by the International Herald Tribune.) The location is only a 25-minute walk from Rue Beethoven and offers breathing room for cooks, servers, and diners.

However, it was at that same time that Barbot and Rohat's honeymoon with Michelin came to an end when their third star was revoked in the 2019 edition of the Michelin Guide. As the expensive and overlong renovation of the Jamin location was underway, another historic event occurred — Covid. The renovation, the move, and the pandemic stretched into three years.

When Astrance reopened in 2022 the team was starting from scratch — new location, no Michelin stars. (In the 2023 and 2024 guides, Michelin has awarded Astrance one star.)

Complexity, Precision, Flavor

Lamb shoulder sourced from the Lozere Shoulder of Lamb, from the Lozere

Fast forward to 2024 where our main course was up next — lamb shoulder sourced from the Lozere region of France, braised and served with an unexpected date and ginger accompaniment, a fantastic combination. A small white bowl of lentils with cubes of carrots and chorizo added to the feeling of a Sunday lunch in the French countryside. A refreshing rhubarb sorbet paved the way for dessert — a tart made with peanuts and sorrel with ice cream was a burst of unexpectedly-paired flavours.

As we lingered over digestifs, reflecting on the delicate, precise courses, we were served a parade of mignardise, those bite-sized desserts that come at the end of a great French meal — in this case warm madeleines, chocolate wafers, creamy egg froth in the shell, and our favorite: fresh cherries, presented over ice.

What's next for the Dynamic Dining Duo? More accolades, that's a certainty. Perhaps a second star from Michelin? In the meantime, book a table in advance of your next visit to Paris to delight in the cooking of one of the most remarkable chefs in France.