Restaurant Laurent Paris – A Culinary Legacy Revisited

Tucked into the gardens alongside Champs-Elysées, where history mingles with Parisian elegance, restaurant Laurent Paris has long been one of the symbols of refined dining. Its legacy dates back to the 18th century (it is housed in a pavilion once used as a royal hunting lodge and later, in 1842, transformed into a dining destination called Café du Cirque).

For decades, Laurent s rotunda dining room and leafy terrace have drawn politicians, celebrities, and food lovers, along with Michelin stars. However, when we dined at restaurant Laurent Paris after its recent revival under the Paris Society group, we wondered whether its modern grandeur matches its storied past, food-wise.

The Golden Age of Restaurant Laurent Paris

The Michelin-Starred Years

The serene charm of the rotunda dining room at Laurent, photo Laurent

For much of the late 20th and early 21st centuries, Laurent was at the pinnacle of Parisian haute cuisine. From 1990 to 2006, the restaurant held two Michelin stars, a testament to the mastery of chefs like Alain Pégouret. Known for his inventive take on traditional cooking, Pégouret produced dishes that were both visually stunning and rich in flavor. A particular favorite was his medley of root vegetables in an artistic presentation of colors and textures that became a signature dish.

Dining at restaurant Laurent Paris during this era was a ritual of elegance, from the ivory-toned interiors to the terrace shaded by centuries-old chestnut trees. Guests included diplomats, business elites, and discerning food lovers who appreciated the oasis of calm amidst the bustle of Paris. The wine list, created by famed sommelier Philippe Bourguignon, offered an amazing selection of 20,000 bottles — a perfect pairing for every meal.

The Setting of Restaurant Laurent Paris

Restaurant Laurent Paris next to a fountain along Champs-Elysées, photo by Mark Craft

The neoclassical pavilion itself oozes timeless charm. Originally restored as part of king Louis Philippe's grand vision for the Champs-Elysées, the building has maintained its historic attraction. The rotunda dining room, with pastel walls and sparkling chandeliers, has a serene atmosphere. In warmer months, the terrace is a lush retreat, transporting you to what feels like a country villa.

Celebrated Chefs & Culinary Excellence

Alain Pégouretin in front of restaurant Laurent Paris

Under the leadership of a succession of celebrated chefs — Alain Pégouret was in charge of the kitchen from 2001 to 2019 — restaurant Laurent Paris stood out as a bastion of traditional French gastronomy. Pégouret, a protege of Joël Robuchon, blended classic techniques with his own clever creativity.

His tenure solidified Laurent's reputation as a destination for fine dining (even though the restaurant dropped to a single Michelin star in 2007). We were enjoying delights like spider crab with lobster jelly and veal cheek accompanied by bone marrow and truffle risotto.

The 2024 Revival: Style Over Substance?

A Relaunch Under Mathieu Pacaud

Mathieu Pacaud in the kitchen of L'Ambroisie back in 2012, photo Mathieu Pacaud

By 2020 Laurent had lost its one star, although it was still listed in the Michelin Guide. After closing its doors in 2023, restaurant Laurent Paris reopened in September 2024 following a significant renovation under the aegis of the Paris Society, a business group that manages over 60 high-end restaurants, clubs, and hotels.

Chef Mathieu Pacaud, celebrated for his work at his father's famed L'Ambroisie and other Michelin-starred eateries, took charge of the kitchen. Like Pégouret before him, Pacaud had a reputation for blending classic French techniques with a contemporary twist; his involvement hinted at a revival of Laurent's former glory.

Alas, our recent visit left us underwhelmed. While the decor — a blend of what you might call historic elegance and modern sophistication — was undeniably stunning, the culinary experience fell short of our hopes and expectations, not to mention our previous dining experience at Laurent.

We started with an item from the Amuse-Gueules section of the menu (just another way of saying appetizers). The item was described as anchois marinés sur une focaccia grillée. Now, in our experience, some of the best chefs often use the simplest terms on their menu, surprising the diner with the elevated dish that arrives.

For instance, at Le Jules Verne on the Eiffel Tower, when we ordered the dish called simply Langoustine, what Chef Frédérick Anton delivered was an amazing & refined bowl of langoustine ravioli with truffle, parmesan cream, and a fine beetroot gelée covering the whole thing.

Langoustine ravioli at Le Jules Verne, with truffle, parmesan cream & beetroot gelée, photo by Mark Craft

We suspected Chef Pacaud was up to the same chefy trick, and we indulged in a silent chuckle. Malheureusement, when dish was brought to our table it was just what the menu said — a line of anchovy paste on a piece of toast. No cleverness, no elevation.

Dishes that should have showcased Pacaud's expertise felt uninspired, and the service was inconsistent, detracting from what we were hoping would have been another memorable dining experience at Laurent.

Rather than an intimate dining experience, the restaurant felt like a social event, where patrons appeared to be more interested in being seen and meeting up with friends than tucking into seriously good cooking.

For us the biggest disappointments were the desserts — a serious misstep for a restaurant in Paris, the patisserie capital of the universe. At twenty-five euros apiece, the lackluster creations felt like an insult to Laurent's reputation. When we complained to the staff we were met with confusion rather than resolution.

The Verdict: Worth a Visit?

Anchovy paste on toast at restaurant Laurent Paris, photo by Mark Craft

For the Ambiance?

There's no denying that the setting of restaurant Laurent Paris remains one of its greatest assets. The terrace, with its attractive & tranquil greenery, and the historic interiors still exude a Parisian charm that's hard to replicate. If you seek a picturesque backdrop for a special occasion, Laurent is hard to beat.

For the Food?

However, if you come to Laurent expecting a memorable culinary experience you may leave disappointed. While some dishes showed glimpses of potential, the overall menu lacked the classicism with innovation that once defined Laurent. For the price, you might find greater satisfaction at some of our other favorite Parisian restaurants.

A Culinary Legacy in Flux

The classic exterior of restaurant Laurent Paris, photo Wikimedia by Erwmat

Look, we don't want to completely trash Laurent. It remains a symbol of Parisian dining, and the location and ambiance are hard to beat. But its current staffing and its current cooking struggle to live up to the illustrious past.

For decades, this was a place where great cooking and an elegant room harmonized perfectly — hence the years with Michelin stars. Today, while its setting continues to be attractive, the food and service left us disappointed. Even legendary Parisian institutions must continually take care to balance hype with top-notch cooking.

Restaurant Laurent Paris Resources

• 41 Avenue Gabriel
• 8th Arrondissement
• Website…